Nouvel article pour faire le zoom sur une matière qui compose nombre de vêtements de mode éthique : le coton biologique.
De plus en plus boudé au profit du chanvre, du lin ou encore du tencel, le coton biologique n’en demeure pas moins une matière incontournable et qui constitue une alternative très intéressante.
Comme il serait dommage de ne pas le mettre en avant, j’y dédie un article !
Il sera question de mettre en parallèle le coton conventionnel et le coton biologique, mais encore de parler des labels, des avantages du coton biologique. Et je terminerai avec une sélection de 10 top et t-shirts en coton biologique sur l’eshop de mode éthique pour femmes Fairytale.eco.
Vous me suivez ? 😉
Un peu d’histoire
Le coton, fibre végétale qui entoure les graines des cotonniers, est la fibre la plus produite dans le monde. Ce sont tous les progrès industriels du XIXème siècle qui ont permis le développement de sa productivité (productivité centuplée !!!).
La culture du coton nécessite beaucoup de soleil, un temps sec, et beaucoup d’arrosage (120 jours pour assurer sa croissance).
L’histoire du coton est riche et passionnante, des fragments de coton datant d’il y a environ 7 000 ans ont été retrouvés dans des grottes de la vallée du Tehuacan, au Mexique. Et, depuis plus de 3000 ans, le coton est cultivé en Inde.
Le coton a donc une longue histoire derrière lui !
Pour en savoir plus, je vous laisse aller jeter un œil sur la page wikipédia dédiée.
Le coton dit « conventionnel »
La culture intensive du coton sert principalement à confectionner une grande partie de nos vêtements (18 millions de tonnes de coton sont produits chaque année).
La production de coton conventionnel ne se fait pas sans impact sur l’environnement et notre santé : sa culture consomme un quart des pesticides mondialement produits (c’est énorme comparé au pourcentage de terre cultivé : 3 %). Quand on sait que jusqu’à 30 traitements par an sont nécessaires pour assurer sa culture on ne peut que penser à la forte dégradation et l’appauvrissement des sols qu’elle engendre…
Pour vous donner une idée, le Bénin est un gros cultivateur de coton, (la culture du coton représente 80 % de ses revenus d’exportation) qui utilise massivement des pesticides. Tous les écosystèmes sont touchés et l’eau est très polluée. Les cas d’intoxications et de décès sont nombreux .
Une enquête au Bénin, en 2016, a révélé que 42% des agriculteurs conventionnels ont présenté des symptômes d’intoxication aiguë aux pesticides au cours de l’année précédente et que près de la moitié de ce groupe a perdu des jours de travail en conséquence. Un nombre choquant de 17% des agriculteurs conventionnels avaient présenté des symptômes d’empoisonnement aux pesticides 6+ fois au cours de l’année précédente. En plus des irritations de la peau et des yeux et des maux de tête, une forte proportion d’agriculteurs ont présenté des réactions systémiques telles qu’une vision floue (51 %), des tremblements (34 %), des pertes de mémoire (3 %) et des convulsions (2 %). » (source : pan-uk.org)
Même si la culture du coton biologique tend à s’y développer, cela reste toujours très problématique (et pas qu’au Bénin).
Pour pallier à cela, le coton biologique tente de se développer de plus en plus et des marques soucieuses de la planète s’y mettent.
Pour permettre aux consommateurs d’y voir plus clair, des labels ont émergés (A savoir : il n’y a juridiquement pas de définition stricte du coton bio).
Les labels
Il serait trop long de détailler ici tous les labels fiables et éthiques existants mais ils peuvent nous aider à y voir plus clair car ils garantissent le respect d’un cahier des charges établi collectivement.
Voici les deux que l’on retrouve le plus souvent :
Global Organics Textile Standard
C’est le label GOTS qui certifie le coton biologique. Il s’agit du label international de référence pour les textiles biologiques, notamment pour le coton bio, depuis 2008. Il garantit l’origine biologique des fibres et assure une production et des exigences socialement responsable (application des principes de l’Organisation internationale du Travail) et respectueuse de l’environnement via l’interdiction de certaines substances toxiques et d’OGM.
Autres labels qui respectent l’environnement : « EU Ecolabel », « contrôlé solidaire par écocert »,
OEKO-TEX standard 100
Ce label que l’on voit de plus en plus, ne garantit pas une fibre biologique mais uniquement l’absence de produit chimique. Plus d’informations ici (possibilité de traduire la page).
Quant aux labels Fairtrade, ils garantissent un salaires et un respect des droits des travailleurs.
Vous pouvez retrouver ici ou encore ici tous les détails sur les labels qui existent.
Les avantages du coton biologique
Il était donc impératif de repenser la production et la transformation du coton en n’utilisant plus de semences OGM ou de pesticides tout au long de la chaine, mais des engrais et insecticides naturels. Mais, qu’est-ce que cela apporte ?
- Les producteurs, les sols et sous-sols et nos vêtements, ne sont plus pollués.
- L’achat d’engrais qui constitue la principale source d’endettement et de dépendance des paysans, n’est plus avec le coton biologique.
- Le blanchiment du coton exige fréquemment d’utiliser du chlore ou des azurants chimiques, quand la fibre du coton biologique est blanchie à l’eau oxygénée et n’utilise pas de chlore.
- Le coton bio pour les nouveaux-nés, les peaux fragiles est génial car il va apporter beaucoup de douceur et surtout, il ne provoquera pas d’allergie due aux produits chimiques.
- Les vêtements en coton bio sont désormais trouvables assez facilement, de nombreuses marques de mode éthique proposent des collections avec cette matière.
- Pour certaines collections, les prix sont abordables.
A savoir : le coton biologique représente environ 2 millions de tonnes vendues par an, contre plus de 17 milliards de tonnes de coton conventionnel.
Questions/réponses
Voici quelques questions que je me posais, auxquelles j’ai pu trouver des réponses :
La production de coton biologique nécessite moins d’eau que celle du coton conventionnel, pourquoi ?
4 % de l’eau potable disponible dans le monde est utilisée pour produire nos vêtements.
Un T-shirt consomme pour sa production 2700 litres d’eau virtuelle (70 douches) dont 45 % pour l’irrigation (ajouter à cela, 400 litres pour sa fabrication et 1200 litres pour son lavage au cours de son cycle de vie.)
Pour donner d’autres exemples : il faut 7000 à 11 000 litres d’ eau (285 douches) pour 1 jeans et 5 260 litres d’eau pour 1 kilo de coton. Enorme non ?
Malgré mes nombreuses recherches, je n’ai pas réussi à trouver un chiffre pour faire le parallèle avec le coton biologique. J’ai seulement compris que la rotation des cultures entraine une consommation d’eau plus faible car la fertilité des sols est meilleure.
« Les sols biologiques retiennent mieux l’eau et l’humidité car ils contiennent plus de matière organique. Le plant de coton nécessite donc moins d’irrigation extérieure pour subvenir à ses besoins en eau ».
De la graine de coton au vêtement combien de transformations et d’étapes il y a ?
De nombreuses étapes sont nécessaires : la récolte, le séchage, l’humidification pour augmenter la solidité de la fibre.
Viennent ensuite l’égrenage (séparer la fibre de la graine), puis le filage (procédé mécanique pour transformer le coton brut en fil).
Quant au doublage, il est optionnel, il consiste à doubler ou tripler le fil pour le rendre plus fort ou le changer d’aspect.
Et la dernière étape : le tissage qui permet d’entrecroiser les fils et d’obtenir une matière qui rendra possible la confection d’un vêtement. Ensuite, une teinture peut être réalisée ou non.
Plus d’informations dans cet article.
Comment teindre le coton ?
D’après une étude de Greenpeace, 2/3 de nos vêtements contiennent des perturbateurs endocriniens.
La teinture du coton conventionnel, requiert souvent d’employer des métaux lourds comme du plomb ou du chrome, qui sont toxiques.
Alors que celle du coton biologique est réalisée sans métaux lourds ou substances cancérigène. Il existe des teintures labelisées OEKO TEX standard 100, mais là aussi difficile de trouver davantage d’informations dessus.
Aussi, voici un article sympathique sur les teintures naturelles aux plantes, végétaux etc. et comment obtenir différentes couleurs. Et pour approfondir le sujet, il y a un livre d’Aurélia Wolff « teintures végétales : carnet de recettes et cahier d’inspirations ».
Ce sont peut-être des techniques qu’utilisaient les péruviens il y a 5000 ans, car ils teignaient naturellement leur coton.
Pour terminer cet article, voici des sélections de vêtements en coton bio que l’on peut trouver.
Zoom sur l’e-shop Fairytale.eco avec leur catégorie de t-shirts en coton bio
Fairytale.eco est un e-shop dédié à la mode éco-responsable et éthique pour femme, lancé en décembre 2020, plus de 55 marques engagées y sont référencées.
Ce projet est celui de Claire, Paul et Xavier, 3 amis de longue date qui se sont lancés pour proposer une mode qui a du sens, durable, avec des valeurs humaines et un impact moindre.
Les marques sont sélectionnées selon 3 critères principaux : l’éthique, la transparence et l’éco-responsabilité des matières premières des vêtements. Un onglet « engagement » sur leur e-shop permet d’avoir accès à tous ces détails, n’hésitez pas à aller y jeter un œil pour en savoir plus.
Parmi les matières qui composent des vêtements qu’on peut retrouver sur leur e-shop il y a évidemment du coton bio. Ils ont un très large choix de tops et t-shirts en coton bio certifiés.
J’ai fait quelques sélection et vous pouvez retrouver tous les détails à côté des images.
Première sélection
1 – 17h10 – T shirt en coton bio « L’union fait la femme » – 100 % coton bio GOTS – 40 €
2 – Armedangels – T shirt coton bio Haadia – 100 % coton bio GOTS – 24.90 €
3 – People tree – Débardeur dentelle en coton bio – 95 % coton bio GOTS – 29 €
4 – Ecoalf – Top en coton bio recycle ‘there is not planet B” – 50 % coton bio OCS et 50 % coton bio recyclé GRS – 39.90 €
5 – Thinking Mu – T shirt en coton bio Mock – 100 % coton bio GOTS – 34.90 €
2ème sélection
1 – Mardi matin – T-shirt en coton bio chewing gum – 100 % coton bio GOTS – 45 €
2- Suite 13 – Top en coton bio Atlas – 100 % coton bio GOTS – 49 €
3 – Risette and co – T-shirt coton bio Contagious optimism – 100 % GOTS – 39 €
4 – Rakha – Top body blanc coton – 100 % GOTS – 75 €
5 – Bleu tango – Tshirt vert en coton bio Almodovar – 100 % coton GOTS – 65 €
Je me suis intéressée à la mode responsable depuis que j’ai visionné le film The true cost que je conseille au passage (disponible sur netflix). Il m’a donné une vraie claque et je ne reviendrai plus en arrière ! J’ai compris qu’il était possible de bien s’habiller de façon raisonnée.
La mode constitue à mon sens un gros « morceaux » et une clef du changement. On voit se succéder les nouvelles collections, les grandes enseignes prospèrent, mais il y a une réelle catastrophe écologique et humaine derrière.
Aujourd’hui à peine plus de 1 % des textiles sont produits biologiquement (source : consoglobe). J’espère que la mode responsable va s’étendre au point de devenir le modèle à suivre mais le choix de se lancer dans une telle initiative signifie beaucoup dans un monde où la fast fashion domine.
N’oublions pas que notre plus grand pouvoir est notre consommation. Par nos choix, nous votons pour des marques/initiatives, pour un système et des valeurs auxquelles nous sommes attachés.
Je tiens tout de même à préciser que « mon discours » n’a pas pour vocation à être moralisateur, chacun fait ce qu’il veut, à son rythme et sans pression. Il faut que la décision de changement vienne de la personne elle-même pour qu’elle puisse tenir sur la durée et ne soit pas vécue comme une contrainte. Il n’y a jamais d’échec, il n’y a que des petits pas en avant ou des petits pas en arrière. Déculpabilisons !
Pour finir, je dirais que ce sujet est encore vaste et passionnant et il y aurait encore beaucoup de choses à dire, je vous laisse donc avec ces quelques sources qui m’ont permis d’étayer cet article, si vous souhaitez les approfondir.
Et vous, que pensez-vous de tout ça ? Est-ce que vous pensez que la mode éthique a des chances de devenir un des modèles à suivre ?
Sources :
https://www.consoglobe.com/pg-mode-ethique-et-coton-bio
https://www.consoglobe.com/labels-mode-responsable-cg
https://www.lesoptimistes.fr/coton-bio/
https://www.office-artist.com/fr/content/72-la-fabrication-du-coton-de-la-graine-au-tissu
https://www.encyclo-ecolo.com/Coton_biologique
https://www.aufeminin.com/conseils-de-mode/coton-s641852.html
Création de contenu en partenariat avec Fairytale.eco, merci à cet e-shop de soutenir mon activité (c’est aussi ça l’éthique 😉 )
Coucou,
Merci pour tes articles toujours aussi intéressants et détaillés ! Je confonds souvent les labels GOTS et Oeko-tex donc c’est toujours bien d’avoir une piqûre de rappel ^^ Honnêtement j’espère que la mode éthique deviendra l’un des modèles à suivre, mais comme tu dis, l’une des clés serait quand même de moins (ou mieux) consommer… or je n’ai pas l’impression qu’on aille trop en ce sens. Je suis loin d’être parfaite d’ailleurs sur le sujet, c’est une réflexion que je mène un peu tous les jours. Mais j’aimerais vraiment que les choses changent. C’est chouette de pouvoir s’habiller comme on veut et laisser parler sa créativité, mais je vois d’un oeil assez négatif les collections qui sortent toutes les semaines… enfin, heureusement de belles initiatives voient le jour régulièrement 🙂
Coucou,
Je suis vraiment contente qu’ils te plaisent ! Je suis d’accord avec toi.. j’aimerais que les choses changent vraiment, à notre « petit » niveau ce n’est pas évident, si seulement, des décisions pouvaient être prises à plus grande échelle. Enfin, comme tu dis, heureusement qu’il y a de belles initiatives ✨🌸
Hello,
comment vas tu? Merci pour cet article très intéressant sur le coton bio. En effet, le coton conventionnel à grande échelle est nocif pour le sol mais aussi les êtres humains donc c’est bien que le coton bio se développe de plus en plus. Merci aussi pour les idées shopping! Il y a de jolies pièces 🙂
Bisous
Mimi
coucou, merci beaucoup pour ton commentaire adorable ! tu as tout résumé !
Bisous à toi 😘😘
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